By Gamal Hennessy
The New York nightlife industry is extremely competitive. There are more than 1,000 places for people to choose from and new spots open up every week. Venues are constantly looking for ways to set themselves apart so they don’t lose business. While they are not universal, specialty drinks are becoming a tool in this arsenal in the same way that music, décor and exclusivity can be used to offer people a different type of experience. This is creating an environment where the visibility of the bartender is on the rise.
The economics of drinking
Recent history has not favored signature cocktails. In the era of bottle service bartenders were little more than unseen warehouse attendants, fetching bottles and filling carafes so shapely hostesses could deliver the generic cranberry, orange juice and coke with the marked up liquor. But that situation is changing. The soft economy has put a dent in the bottle service concept and it is unclear if it will survive the downturn. If bottle service is going the way of Merrill Lynch, then clubs and lounges will need new tricks to get people in the door.
Many new venues are opening with a unique menu of signature drinks to break away from the pack. In this system, the bartender becomes analogous to the DJ blending fresh juices, berries and flavored liquor in the same way a DJ blends songs and beats to create something different. Similarity between drinks at different bars is probably inevitable in the same way different DJ’s in the same genre can all sound the same after a while but the opportunity for a distinctive reputation exists with signature drinks in a way that doesn’t exist with bottle service.
Signature drinks can also be a good source of revenue in a down economy. These new drinks normally go for $12-$20 each (while this is exorbitant outside of Manhattan, it doesn’t raise many eyebrows here) so a person who has three of these creations can easily be spending $50 without the tip. Add snacks into the mix and a night of cocktails for two can bring in almost as much money as a couple having dinner. While it won’t completely replace the revenue lost from bottles (it would take five people buying five $20 cocktails each to replace one $500 bottle of Grey Goose) it can soften the financial blow.
Winners and losers
Signature drinks offer something to customers, bartenders and to the club owners. It also signals a shift within the bartending market. No comprehensive study has been done, but anecdotal evidence suggests that some older bartenders who learned on the job over a period of many years are being replaced by younger, professionally trained, and often better looking “mixologists”. Can the older bartenders learn to make the new style drinks? Absolutely. But when presentation counts as much as the taste of the drink the younger bartender has a distinct advantage.
Keep in mind that there is a specific market for specialty drinks. They are primarily geared toward women who are willing to experiment. Guys aren’t usually interested in Asian pear martinis or chocolate cosmos, and there are women who will cling to their vodka red bull like a crack head to a pipe. But nightlife caters to women. Women will go where the drinks are. Men will go where the women are. Everyone will spend more money. Any thing that will bring more women through the door is worth a try. So more places will probably come up with their own specialty drinks…
The New York nightlife industry is extremely competitive. There are more than 1,000 places for people to choose from and new spots open up every week. Venues are constantly looking for ways to set themselves apart so they don’t lose business. While they are not universal, specialty drinks are becoming a tool in this arsenal in the same way that music, décor and exclusivity can be used to offer people a different type of experience. This is creating an environment where the visibility of the bartender is on the rise.
The economics of drinking
Recent history has not favored signature cocktails. In the era of bottle service bartenders were little more than unseen warehouse attendants, fetching bottles and filling carafes so shapely hostesses could deliver the generic cranberry, orange juice and coke with the marked up liquor. But that situation is changing. The soft economy has put a dent in the bottle service concept and it is unclear if it will survive the downturn. If bottle service is going the way of Merrill Lynch, then clubs and lounges will need new tricks to get people in the door.
Many new venues are opening with a unique menu of signature drinks to break away from the pack. In this system, the bartender becomes analogous to the DJ blending fresh juices, berries and flavored liquor in the same way a DJ blends songs and beats to create something different. Similarity between drinks at different bars is probably inevitable in the same way different DJ’s in the same genre can all sound the same after a while but the opportunity for a distinctive reputation exists with signature drinks in a way that doesn’t exist with bottle service.
Signature drinks can also be a good source of revenue in a down economy. These new drinks normally go for $12-$20 each (while this is exorbitant outside of Manhattan, it doesn’t raise many eyebrows here) so a person who has three of these creations can easily be spending $50 without the tip. Add snacks into the mix and a night of cocktails for two can bring in almost as much money as a couple having dinner. While it won’t completely replace the revenue lost from bottles (it would take five people buying five $20 cocktails each to replace one $500 bottle of Grey Goose) it can soften the financial blow.
Winners and losers
Signature drinks offer something to customers, bartenders and to the club owners. It also signals a shift within the bartending market. No comprehensive study has been done, but anecdotal evidence suggests that some older bartenders who learned on the job over a period of many years are being replaced by younger, professionally trained, and often better looking “mixologists”. Can the older bartenders learn to make the new style drinks? Absolutely. But when presentation counts as much as the taste of the drink the younger bartender has a distinct advantage.
Keep in mind that there is a specific market for specialty drinks. They are primarily geared toward women who are willing to experiment. Guys aren’t usually interested in Asian pear martinis or chocolate cosmos, and there are women who will cling to their vodka red bull like a crack head to a pipe. But nightlife caters to women. Women will go where the drinks are. Men will go where the women are. Everyone will spend more money. Any thing that will bring more women through the door is worth a try. So more places will probably come up with their own specialty drinks…
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